Lawn Treatments Explained

 

Organic lawn feed:

The main principle of organic lawn care is not only to feed your grass, but also the soil it is growing in using natural products.

Nutranatural Micro is a great organic feed to ensure your lawn gets the very best, naturally. It is a unique mix of bonemeal, feathermeal, blood meal, humic acid and micro-nutrients (trace elements), plus the addition of beneficial bacteria to ensure strong healthy grass growth. This feed will give a quick boost and then provide a long-term, slow-release feed for three months, so the grass is fed more effectively for much longer.

Nutranatural Micro spring & summer (15N.4P.10K) is a high in nitrogen feed to ensure a green, healthy looking lawn.
Nutranatural Micro autumn & winter (5N.3P.13K) is high in potash to strengthen grass during this difficult time of year.

Mechanical treatments:

Scarification:

Scarifying is a process best described as a mechanical raking of the lawn; a lawn that has developed a large amount of thatch or moss needs to be scarified to remove as much of this material as possible allowing the grass space to grow.

If a lawn has a moss problem then it is advised to apply an iron treatment to kill off the moss pre-scarification. For this we use Nutra-Iron Granular, a brilliant, quick acting fine-grade granular fertilizer, which can be used for extra hardening and blackening, or also as a midsummer green up, handy before a garden event.

Aeration:

Aeration is the most effective way of reducing sub-surface thatch and soil compaction (usually found on clay soils). It is recommended a lawn is hollow tined at least once every 3 years when cores are removed and back filled with a fine sand to open up the soil. Solid tined aeration can be done up to twice a year in autumn and spring to improve drainage in the lawn.

Creating holes in your lawn it allows more air and water circulation around your grass roots, preventing fungal invasions, and encouraging the growth of healthy microorganisms in the soil. These microorganisms eat lawn thatch. Aeration also makes it easier for your lawn to grow stronger, deeper roots. A good root system is essential for your lawn's survival in times of drought.

Soil acidifying & worm cast control:

If a lawn is on an alkaline soil or your grass is looking yellow, your soil may need acidifying by the addition of sulphur. We use Sulphurlawn Chips for this in spring and autumn. This makes nutrients more readily available to the grass resulting in better colour, vibrancy and growth.

The same product is also used to discourage worm casts. Casting worms do not favour acidic soils so burrow deeper when this is applied, reducing casts on the surface. Ignoring worm casts on your lawn by squashing them flat with your mower will create an uneven surface, smother existing grass and provide an ideal seed bed for weeds to grow in.

Weed control:

The most important factors in keeping your lawn free from weeds are regular mowing, feeding and good general lawn care.

We try not to encourage chemical use in the garden by following these processes to allow your grass the best possible chance to out compete the nasties. However if there is an inherent weed problem we use the 'friendlier products' on the market to help eradicate them.

Pest control:

Biological control is by far the most environmentally friendly and organic way to control pests in your lawn. The main offending lawn pests – chafer grubs and leatherjackets – can be controlled by the use of specific nematodes which we can apply at the right time for you.

Ants and anthills can be controlled by the use of PY insect killer, a highly effective organic pesticide.

Lawn repairs & restoration:

Topdressing involves spreading good quality topsoil or compost on top of your lawn. This adds organic matter and improves the condition of the soil.

Overseeding is the process of adding grass seed to your lawn to make it thicker and able to crowd out weeds. We will select from a range of different seed mixes to suit different situations.

Early autumn is the best time to overseed, but it can also be done successfully in the early spring.

 

 

 

 

 

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